At Berwick we either cut by hand (the cutter uses a sharp knife as a work tool to toil on the pieces making up the pattern) or through computer-based cutting machines, which maximise the performance of the sheets of leather. The main premise of both systems is task accuracy.
A well-sewn shoe makes a good shoe. This section consists of the jigsaw resulting from cutting the pieces, painstakingly stitching them together and then to the lining, producing festoons, punching decorative patterns, lowering edges and leaving the shoe ready for lasting.
Lasting and Welting
A pneumatic machine mounts the cutting to the shoe tree which the insole has been stapled to, “sculpting” the volume of the shoe. The following fitting operations culminate in the welting process, where a machine combines the welt, cutting and insole in a single stitch. The gap remaining for stitching the sole is filled with resin agglomerate cork, which along with our weight will be a template to fit our foot.
Stitching the sole and paring off the rough edge
The sole is glued to the shoe to secure it in a step prior to stitching. A pre-paring off of the rough edge subsequently occurs that somewhat reduces the excess material on the sole, and this is sewn to the welt with an eight-strand waxed thread. This stitching does not go through the insole, making the shoe waterproof. By paring off the rough edge, the welt’s “fullness” fits perfectly.
A factory is in itself a gigantic machine that is complicated to operate, in which each cog has a specific function and is essential in the overall performance. Or an orchestra with musicians that play in perfect coordination.
Always in a perpetual fight against time, and in the pursuit of excellence in the work intended to be carried out.
Built by people
Our shoes are handmade. And no two hands are the same or sew a bead on the same way. Machines help us in certain processes but we leave something of ourselves in creating each pair, making it unique and singular.